Cameras 101

This site provided valuable feedback on my query about transcription. So, I am back with another issue.

I have been shooting sports for a short period of time. I’ve gotten better at it but looking to improve with me needing to buy a new camera.

I am looking to buy a moderately-priced camera and zoom lens to shoot sports. As I mentioned, I’m not the best, especially since I am not just shooting photos. I’m doing so while also serving as a writer and needing to jot down information. I’m looking for something that allows me to quickly transition from writing down stuff to taking a picture. I’m looking for a camera and lens that is not too heavy.

I am looking for a camera with an autofocus feature. I need something to shoot outdoor sports but also for tighter indoor stuff like basketball and volleyball.

I was wondering what folks might recommend and any helpful tidbits. Do I need image stabilization, for example.

Again, any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

 

Unfortunately, true sports photography gear gets quite pricey. Bodies alone can cost a couple grand, and quality lenses will set you back further.

There is a lot to be had on the refurbished/used market, but those prices are going up because of the overall cost of photography these days and the microchip shortage limiting supply of new cameras. So you either have to go back several generations and sacrifice newer features or be willing to put up some cash.

Regardless of your budget, you'll want a camera with three things: Quality performance in low-light (high school gyms suck for photography), fast autofocus, and capable of at least 6 frames per second to freeze the action in bursts of shots. Pros will go much higher, but to get by, you need at least 6 FPS.

Stick to the main three brands for a camera body - Canon, Nikon and Sony. They're all excellent. It's just individual preference at this point.

The rest of this is really dictated by your budget. You will not get a usable setup for under $1000 and likely not under $2000. Your employer really should be pitching in to buy this equipment because of the cost.

But, if you're on a stricter budget and shelling out your own cash, I recommend going refurbished/used.

Three sites I would recommend: Adorama, BHPhotoVideo, and KEH. Generally speaking, I'd look for camera bodies at Adorama and BH while going for lenses at KEH, but all are fair, reputable and will have customer service available if something goes wrong. Each of the three has a rating system for the condition of the used gear. Pay close attention to it. Cosmetic blemishes are fine as long as the gear works well. You can also go directly to the Canon/Sony/Nikon store sites and look for refurbished cameras, but they'll run a little more expensive and they will not have as much stock available.

Also, avoid bundles. The lenses you're getting with bundles are worthless for sports.

A few sample options for bodies. These are Canon recommendations because it's what I'm familiar with, but again, Nikon and Sony are also excellent:
- Canon 5D Mark III from Adorama for $859
- Canon 6D Mark II from BH for $1146
- Canon 90D from BH $1199

Now, for lenses, you definitely want lenses with image stabilization. You're shooting moving subjects and it reduces shakiness from your hands. Again, go refurbished/used. For indoor sports, you're really going to want something that goes down to F/2.8 to get enough light. For outdoor sports, you can probably deal with F/4.0, but it might be a challenge for really dark areas of a football field.

Indoor lens options might include something like:
- Canon F/2.8 24-70 L MKII (no image stabilization, but it's still the king of low light lenses) for $1438
- Canon F/2.8 70-200 L MKII IS for $1461

Outdoor lens option:
- Canon F/4.5-5.6 100-400 L MKII IS for $1679

You can maybe get by with the 70-200 for football, but you'll be limited to the red zones, basically.

You can explore the Sigma and Tamron brand of lenses that are made for Canon, Nikon and Sony mounts, but those can be hit and miss.

Regardless, even budget options are still expensive when it comes to trying to shoot sports and having something that is printable online and on the page.

Godspeed.

 

Fielding opinions on here is helpful. But I’d also direct you to YouTube, which is where I learned everything I know about photography (including which cameras and lenses to buy). A lot of helpful creators on there. They will all tell you — and I can attest to it, as well — a solid understanding of angles, composition, lighting and other techniques is more important than having expensive equipment.

The Nikon D3500 and D5600 models are affordable and user-friendly, often coming equipped with decent kit lenses. You could use those cameras to get your feet under you and learn the basics. The next step up, without totally breaking the bank but starting to get pricey, is a D7500 and I consider that a rather big step up.

 

SoloFlyer has it right. You’ll have to spend some money to get acceptable pictures, especially if it’s at night or in a dimly lit gym or rink.

Budget everything out on paper, including memory cards and a hard drive to archive photos on. One rule of thumb: If it comes down to a better camera or better lens, go with the better lens (which is to say faster, like 2.8). As an old photog buddy says, “It’s all about the glass.”

 

I have a Nikon D5600 that came with 18-55 and 70-300 lenses. Fastest F stop is F/3.5 on the 18-55 lens (which is what's on the camera now). Most of my work is in golf and is outside, so I don't have the same indoor lighting concerns that you have. I think the body ran for about $700. The 300 is long enough that I can stay pretty far away from players when I'm shooting action. Any longer lens is going to require a major investment, as they often will cost more than the body. There's a reason that photogs are so protective of their equipment. I'm no expert, but I'm handy enough to shoot the limited action that golf provides, and I don't really need anything longer, thankfully. I had a D3500 previously and the autofocus in the D5600 is loads better, FWIW.

 

I began my career as a newspaper photojournalist before grad school and design.

Some thoughts:

For sports action photography, buy the longest focal length with the widest aperture (lowest f-number) you can afford.

Image stabilization provides the most obvious advantage by reducing blur caused by camera shake. Using a monopod or other support is more effective, but you’ll have that extension to maneuver when switching to writing, etc.

Digital cameras have much higher ISO settings than film cameras, but there are limits. Higher ISO settings allow faster shutter speeds and less motion blur. The higher the ISO, the more noise in the image. 800 ISO is usually fairly decent. 1600 or higher will probably significantly lose quality. Experiment and decide what is acceptable to you before using a very high ISO setting on an important event.

Because many engineers are interested in cameras, there is a lot of technical information online. Much of it is too deep-in-the-weeds for practical use, but checking it for a particular camera will often let you know if it is likely to be rugged ( Does it have a metal chassis?) or if a particular lens is sharp and free of distortion.

Don’t automatically overlook lenses that are not made by camera manufacturers. Sigma, Tamron and other companies make decent lenses that are less expensive. Consider used equipment if it is in good condition.

Adapt your shooting style to your equipment. If your gear can’t capture fast action in low light, look for emotion or coaching images on the bench. It might be a much higher percentage attempt to shoot a star player getting a hug that trying to capture the game-winning score.

Think about what is in the background of your photos and adjust accordingly, if possible.

Appreciate good or dramatic light and use it when you can.

Don’t reject using the camera on your cellphone, when appropriate. Many phones make very good images with much wider angle than most DSLR lenses. Be aware that they can distort, especially in the corners, but that can be reduced with camera angle. Phones are often better for those situations in which you might need to hold a camera overhead for those “Hail Mary” shots: You’ll probably be able to better see the preview image on the phone back than on many cameras. If you have the option when upgrading phones, choose the model with better cameras (the “Pro” versions of iPhones, for example).