YankeeFan
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I'VE been a baseball fanatic most of my life. When I was a child I knew the starting lineup of every team in both leagues. Statistics slipped through my lips as easily as lies would through a politician's.
Those were simpler times, of course. While opening day still excites me, nowadays sabermetric terms beyond my ken like WHIP and Pecota have supplanted the simpler E.R.A. and R.B.I. as meaningful discussion points. Rather than debase myself arguing with teenage stat wizards, I've shifted my concern to other important baseball-related issues, like beer.
The relationship between beer and baseball still recalls those easy days before personal computers and steroids, when players spent entire careers with one team and you could actually afford to take your family to the ballpark and sit in the good seats. The only smudge in this rosy vision of yore is the beer itself.
Back then, the beer served at ballparks was awful, because American beer in general was awful. The Yankees were sponsored by Ballantine and the Mets by Rheingold, but you wouldn't actually want to drink either of those bygone beers. Then came the craft beer revolution. Today, world-class beers abound. You can buy them at your corner deli. But at the ballpark?
In New York, the situation has been dire. The selection has never been good at Yankee Stadium, where you were lucky to find a Guinness Stout among the mass-market brands sold at absurd prices. It was scarcely better at Citi Field, where the big breweries buried an initial effort to sell local craft beers.
That grim outlook is easily remedied at home, in front of the television set. No, it's not ideal. Nothing beats baseball live. But the beer is so much better, and cheaper. So, I've happily considered the alternatives. A snappy, bracingly bitter pilsner seems perfect for a day game. I'd be overjoyed as well with a Kölsch, the extraordinarily pleasant German ale from Cologne, or a zesty American pale ale. Each of these styles is refreshing, with plenty of character but mild enough to permit several servings over the long nine-inning haul.
Yet most games are played at night, which puts me in mind of dark beers. As I was daydreaming about the coming season I found myself craving porter, the classic British dark ale, which had largely died out in Britain until North American craft brewers revived the style.
What could be better than porter and a night game? I love the roasted grain flavors, the mild, chug-worthy weight and reddish-black color of a good English porter, like those from Samuel Smith's, Fuller's and St. Peter's. The beer world has a term for brews like that: sessionable, meaning they are generally low enough in alcohol, 4 to 6 percent, not to overpower you during a drinking session.
American versions are more varied, as inconsistent stylistically as a rookie pitcher. They range from close facsimiles of the English style to interpretations that anyone would be hard-pressed to identify as porter.
Still, it's an American game, so the beer panel decided to focus on American porters, 20 in all, at a recent tasting. Florence Fabricant and I were joined by Kirk Kelewae, the dining room manager at Eleven Madison Park, who oversees the restaurant's beer list, and Hayley Jensen, the beer sommelier at Taproom No. 307 in Kips Bay.
http://www.nytimes.com/2012/03/28/dining/reviews/beer-review-american-porters.html?pagewanted=all
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